Jiri
Our hike to the highest mountain in the world, Mount Everest, starts in Jiri. Here we arrive after eight hours strenuous and shaking bus drive. We got accommodation in a nice Tibetan family guesthouse. After four weeks in the tropics it feels quite cold here at 1800m NN in the evening. So long pants, sweater and hat on before we go to explore the place.
From Jiri to Shivalaya
Now we are on the trek to Lukla. Today's destination is Shivalaya. This small town is located just 3.5 hours' walk from Jiri. It goes over a hill with 2300m. For the first walking day this is sufficient. We take our time and enjoy the scenery. The path leads us through the fields and through a valley with blooming rhododendrons, then Shivalaya is below us. The women are sitting on a gravel bar on the waterfront and weave mats. We cross the suspension bridge and are in a surprisingly beautiful location. We are sitting in front of our lodge enjoing the afternoon sun. Then comes the evening thunderstorm.
From Shivalaya to Bhandar
For Deurali we must ascend 1000 meters today. For the second day of hiking that's pretty good. Just behind it Shivalaya steep climb. For almost an hour over many stairs until it becomes less steep. Far below us is now Shivalaya and the view extends well over the hills of Jiri. The valley becomes narrower, fewer fields and the forest becomes denser. Shortly before noon we reach the Deurali pass with just over 2700m. It is quite windy and we are looking for a sheltered spot for compulsory garlic soup. From here we see the first high snowy mountains of the Everest area. A short steep descent leads to Bhandar.
From Bhandar to Sete
From Bhandar, there are two ways to Kinja in the valley of Likha Kola. The old trek leads directly down to the river, while the new road up the hill above the valley of Likha Kola skirts, and then steeply goes down to perform Kinja. A farmer shows us the beginning of the new trail and so we walk on this splendid panorama trek to Kinja. It is rather precisely along the slope, always a little up and down a bit again. A wide view of the valley and over compensated for Lamjura La for the constant ups and downs. At the confluence of Likha Kola and Kinja Kola is the market town Kinja located. After passing the two suspension bridges we need to show our TIMS Permit. It is Easter Sunday and we sit in the sun and eat Appelpie. Well rested, it then goes to the ascent to Sete. The slope is located right in the sun, and we are extremely warm. After about 500 meters we reach Chimbhu, then it is not quite as steep. Here are lot's of blooms of rhododendron and in the evening after a long journey we reach Sete.
From Sete to Junbesi
The path from Sete to Junbesi today takes us through the La Lamjura with approximately 3530 m NN. Prior to pass but is still a Hill with approx 3600m NN to cross at the Himalayan Lodge. From Sete it goes steeply uphill. The path here is not as well maintained as in the Annapurna Circuit. It's more like in the western Alps and recalls the taff crossing of the Col de Bresson, so rocky and steep. After a while we walk through a sparse rhododendron forest with beautiful view in the valley of Kinja Kola and on the snowy Jase Bhanjyang. About Dakachu and Goyam we reach Kande. Here in a small lodge we drink tea and have a beautiful view of mighty flowering rhododendron trees in front of snow-capped mountains. Continueing uphill through unfortunately deforested forests, which do not provide a pretty sight. It shows that there are powerful environmental problems here. Erosion of the road and the suspension is the result. Then we are at the Snowline and reach after more then 1000m meters ascent finally La Lamjura. Here we have Dhal Bhat before we densent through rhododendron forest and beautiful alpine meadows to Junbesi. Junbesi lies in a beautiful valley and in background the white Karyolung is to be seen with 6511 m above see level.
From Junbesi to Ringmu
After a rest day in Junbesi today we hike through a landscape of pine forests, meadows and flower-lined paths. We cross the suspension bridge right behind Junbesi and rise steeply in the pine forest. Soon the forest lights and the road is flat. The view extends over the valley of Junbesi Khola until Lamjura La, about we have come. From here it is not far to Phurteng. In clear weather you have here the first View of the Mount Everest. Unfortunately, there are thick clouds. Some mountain peaks rise above these clouds and beyond giving an idea of how enormous this mountain range is. We go further on this beautiful panorama way, still high above the valley of Dudhkund Khola until we brief for a steep descent to reach the large suspension bridge before Ringmu. Now it's just a short climb up to Ringmu. Here we find a beautiful lodge with a sunny porch and a great view.
From Ringmu to Jubhing
Since about noon in the last days always dense clouds have appeared. So shortly after 7 o' clock we are leaving the lodge. It is still really cold and in the meadows is hoarfrost. Some white mountaintops glow, but the first clouds unfortunately apear there allready. We reach, after a short climb to La Taksindu, almost 3000m above sea level. On the pass stands a score through that just a mule caravan arrived. From here it goes down 1500m to Daku Khola. The path is almost terrible. Loose stones, mud and mule dung result in a perpetrator of hard to mix. The descent is therefore very exhausting and we are to be able to take a break in Nunthala happy. Finally we reach the suspension bridge over the Daku Khola and thus to 1510m NN the lowest point of the Tenzing-Hillary Everest trek from Jiri too. After a short ascent we are in Jubhing and looking for a Lodge.
From Jubhing to Paiya
This morning it is clear. Far below us is the valley when we to ascend to Karikola. The Path is steep, muddy and interspersed with loose stones. Again and again we encounter mule caravans in the narrow way. Shortly before Kharikola is a monastery, right next to two beautiful tea houses. Here in the sun we rest. The houses of Kharikola are scattered all over the hillside between fields; there are grown potatoes, vegetables and grains. The road through the village is well maintained and nice to go. It's really relaxing. After the bridge over the same river it goes up to Bupsa. From here the view extends far beyond the valley of the Dudh Koshi Nadi and down to Kharikola, whence we have come. Now there are three more hours to Paiya. The valley to the left is low, right it goes up steeply. On the slope, the rhododendron trees and the giant flower ancient magnolia trees. Again and again, flowers along the way, it is a beautiful landscape. But the way is terrible. Mud, loose stones, steep or very high kicking steps. We must be very careful and have to go slowly. This path is the only connection between the villages and the only connection with the wider world. Everyone can recognizes that this way once was in good shape and even completely paved. Why is he no longer maintained? We do not not understand. Quite exhausted we finally reach Paiya. In a cozy lodge we spend the evening.
From Paiya to Lukla
The last stage in the Tenzing-Hillary trek from Jiri to Lukla via the La Chuteok with 2945 m above sea level. It is
only just over 600m down to Surke and then back up to Lukla at 2840 m above sea level. From La Chutok we can see the
airplanes to land in Lukla already braking. But we still have to go down via Surke Khola. The Path is a little better
today, but going quite well into the knees, 600m down on stage. Then it's back ascend. About roar of the propeller aircraft
and down the valley rushing waterfalls of Lumding Kola down from the opposite 6500m high mountains. Then after eight days
walking and one rest day we finally reach Lukla. The Sherpas need only three days for this approach.
Here in Lukla we will stay a little before we go on the trek to the top of the world. Let's see how far we get.
Lukla
From here is hype. Every morning half past six sounds a siren and announces the flight operations. As long as the weather permits land small propeller planes and start after a few minutes. Every day, so many hikers and Climbers are here. Most data immediately pull towards Namche Bazaar. So there is here a constant coming and going. We looked around a bit, here are some pictures from Lukla.
upward