From Lukla to Monjo
Now it comes to the really high mountains. After we have registered our TIMS we climb almost 200m from the Duda Koshi Nadi. Along the river, it goes on and on upwards towards Khumbu. We get a lot of small places with beautiful tea houses and partly large hotels that do no longer really fit into these mountains. Although we are now about 3000m above sealevel we walk everywhere throught gardens and fields. Corn and potatoes are grown here. Along the way now bloom cherries and peaches. The Rhododendron flowering is almost over. Again and again we encounter mule caravanes and now increasingly, Dzongz as beasts of burden. Passing Gompas and Prayerweelsand long suspension bridges, which span the side valleys, we finally reach on early afternoon Monjo. We will stay here, because tomorrow it is going up to Namche in Khumbu at 3440 m.
From Monjo to Kyangjuma
We are alone on the heavily used trek from Lukla to Namche Bazar. No trekkers and no Dzong's. It is still early, only half past six in the morning, the birds chirping and the torrent rushes. About nine clock we reach the really big suspension bridge at Larja. Unfortunately, the upper very long bridge over the Duda Koshi Nadi is locked, so must we ascend to the old down slightly shorter suspension bridge and then on to the other side. Here we also meet the first hikers and porters descending from Namche to Lukla. After an hour climb we reach the Check Post before Namche, register us and after another half an hour we are in Namche Bazar. There is a long pause before we again walk on a beautiful panorama path for two hours high above the valley to Kyangjuma at 3550 m NN. Behind us is a thunderstorm and Everest and Lhotse are unfortunately cloudy. The valley of Duda Koshi Nadi looks very dramatic, unfortunately the overall impression of this wild mountain landscape can not be capture on photos.
From Kyangjuma to Phortse Thanga
Today's stage is short, because now it goes up right. We get back on a panorama path above the Valley of Duda Koshi Nadi to almost 4000 m above sea level. Here is the small village of Mongna. After two hours, slow walking, we arrive. On the way we got beautiful weather and a fine view of Lhotse Shar and Ama Dablam as well as the Thamserku. During lunchtime suddenly the weather change and it begins to snow. We left and after a 45 min sharp descent we reache Phortse Thanga at 3680 m NN. On the last meters it rains already strong. As soon as we are in the Lodge it starts heavy snowing. Hopefully tomorrow it will be better weather.
From Phortse Thanga to Machherma
After it had snowed so hard yesterday afternoon and evening everything is covered with fresh snow today. The sky is blue except for a few scattered clouds. So early in the morning we are also traveling alone. But around eight clock again thick clouds apear, and soon it begins to snow. Already at half past nine we reach Dole. There is Internet connection and we can get the weather report. From tomorrow on it will be beautiful. So we are continuing to Machherma. It is a little mudslinging. The trail is softened and slippery. It's continuing to snow and nothing is to be seen from the mountains. Shortly before we reach Machherma at about 4400 m above sea level, the sun comes through and it gets warm. The mountains around remains hidden. Only very occasionally a white peak is to be seen high above the clouds.
An acclimatization day in Machherma
The height makes itself felt now. We are here at 4460 m above sea level and stay a day to adjust to the altitude. When looking out the window we see a bright blue sky. Is the expected good weather coming? The View is terrific. We see all around snowcapped high mountains. We go without luggage about 250m on a moraine up to a lookout point high above the valley. At the end of the valley we see the Cho Oyu, opposite the Cholatse and between two crags through the Mount Everest is to be seen. He pulls out a huge snow banner. We sit long in gorgeous sunshine before this grandiose panorama.
From Machherma to Gokyo
We climb in the first sunlight on the moraine behind Macherma. The ground is still frozen, thus it is easier to go. The air is still very cold so we go for the first time on this walk with down jacket. We soon arrive at the small chorten top of the moraine. Here the sun is already strong and we start with undressing. A short time later we reach Phangga at the foot of the moraine Ngozumba glacier. From here it goes long up to the first of the Gokyo Lakes. The view extends from the Cho Oyu to the Cholatse far down in the Valley of Duda Khosi Nadi where we still walk along. Now it's over snowfields to the second frozen lake. Along this big lake we continue to the third of the Gokyo Lakes. The air is thin, because we walk now on an altitude of about 4800 m above sea level that is as high as the Mont Blanc. Breathing is difficult and we have to go slowly. In the sun it is so warm that the snow becames soft. Around noon we are in Gokyo, finding a beautiful lodge overlooking the lake. We have a rest. In the afternoon we climb even on the lateral moraine of Ngozumba Glacier. The sight is breathtaking, pure force of nature, ice, rocks and stones, meltwater lakes and you can hear the movement of the biggest Himalayan glacier. The panorama with the mighty Cho Oyu in the background with pictures barely to capture.
On the Gokyo Ri
It's still dark in the valley, only the top of Cho Oyu shines in the first sunlight. We jump from stone to stone as we cross the source of Duda Khoshi Nadi at Dudh Pokhari third of the Gokyo Lakes. Then it goes off right steeply uphill in hairpin bends. The ground is still frozen, and the air is very cold, so it's still easy to go. After an good hour, the sun rises and it becomes instantly warmer. A little later we are at the first snowfields were we put on our cramponst. On the still packed snow it is now almost directly upward. The ascent to Gokyo Ri gets steeper and the air thinner. It goes slowly, slowly uphill. At half past nine, after about four hours, we are at the summit. The Gokyo Ri is 5357m high. All around we can see high snow-capped mountains. Mount Everest, the Lhotse, the Nupse, the Makalu, Cho Oyu and from far greets the Kanchenjunga. So six of ten of the highest mountains and many, many other great mountains inbetween. Down in the valley is the Ngozumba the largest glaciers of the Himalayas. It's stunning how nature presents here. We spend two hours in the glorious sunshine on the summit and enjoy the view.
